Kings Canyon National Park: A Backpacker’s Fever Dream

If you’ve got little to no experience backpacking, you and I have something in common. Backpacking can seem a little daring at first: leaving all societal luxuries back at the trailhead and carrying everything you may even possibly need in your pack. For a newbie, it probably means some investments in gear that you’ve never used, and a brave-hearted spirit for adventure.

Kings Canyon National Park somewhat takes a backseat to it’s California neighbors, Sequoia NP and Yosemite NP, but that’s kind of what makes this park so special. While it is less crowded, it is definitely not less beautiful- or majestic. You could easily fill a couple of days with some day hikes, and then hit Sequoia right next door for a memorable trip, but I’m here to convince you to give backpacking a try, because the Rae Lakes Trail in this park will be an adventure you will not forget.

Rae Lakes Loop

This trail is a 43-45ish mile loop- I encourage you NOT to get scared off by that number because a base level of physical fitness (or motherhood, I imagine, if you’ve carried a small child for several hours at a time) can carry you through each day. We took this trail in 4 days of hiking with 3 nights of camping- however the trail can be done in 5/4 respectively.

Backpacking this trail also requires a Wilderness Permit for overnight camping, however the accompanying fee is only $15 for the trip plus $5 dollars per person (a relatively small price to pay for jaw-dropping accommodations made by Mother Nature herself.) Reservations for this trail can be made beginning in February of the quota season you are looking to hike.

We took this loop clockwise, encouraged by the notion that the incline of about 7,920 ft (peaking at Glen Pass) would be less steep over the course of 2.5 days and we could finish the last day and a half with all down hill. After seeing fellow backpackers take this loop counterclockwise, I would still recommend that you take the trail to the right and go clockwise for a more enjoyable experience.

Food Storage

To travel safely on this hike, you’ll need to pack ALL of your food in a Food Storage Container approved by the National Parks System. This safety precaution helps your (and your neighbor’s) chances of bears not entering your campsite or the camp area. We purchased the Bear Vault 500 and I feel pretty confident saying it held just enough food for 2 people for 3 days (you don’t have to pack the first day because you’ll consume it before you put it in the communal locker at the campsites). Again, I’m going to ask you to not let the fear of encountering a bear deter you from taking this adventure because it is so unlikely that you’ll meet one. A healthy wild animal wants nothing to do with a visitor.

Rae Lakes Day 1: Trailhead to Upper Paradise Valley, 11.5 mi

The first day alone includes so many breathtaking vistas, waterfalls, as well as some shallow pools you can take a dip in. The pools had the most crystal clear freshwater this swamp rat has ever seen, however it was so cold, I cold only experience a few brief moments before my heart nearly jumped out of my chest. Still, an experience I’d highly recommend.

Mosquito repellent is advised as we caught a pretty heavy cloud of them as we waded through a patch of tall grass and approached Paradise Valley. Once we got to the campsite, however, we were pretty clear from them.

Rae Lakes Day 2: Upper Paradise Valley to Rae Lake, 13 mi

You’ll want to start day two off a little early so you can have more time to enjoy your night at Rae Lake. You’ll have quite a bit of elevation to climb, so plan to break as often as you need and plan to pack an extra snack for this day because you’ll spend some physical energy reaching your campsite.

The arrival at Rae Lakes, while utterly gorgeous, is a little misleading when you consider that you have to keep marching on past a creek before you approach any available campsites. But oye, by the end of day two, the majesty of a mountainous lake moved my feet one step a step at a time towards more and more unforgettable sights.

We found an exposed campsite on the edge of the lake that offered multiple views of the surrounding mountains, and took a little adventure to swim a little bit in the lake itself. After making dinner, the sun started to set and the temperatures started to drop. Even in July, the nightly temps dipped below freezing, so be sure to pack some cool weather gear for the nights, even though you probably won’t need it during the day. We shed our fleece layers within the first twenty minutes of each day.

Day 3: Rae Lakes to Junction Meadow, 11 mi

I don’t how to tell you this, but the climb to Glen Pass was so physically exhausting, yet so intrinsically rewarding to reach the top. You should stop as often as you need as you’ll gain about 1,500 ft in about 3 miles. Fortunately, you’ll hit the climb in the morning, giving you the perfect opportunity to eat a good lunch and take a fairly long break at the peak. This is without a doubt, the toughest part of this hike, but if you recall, there is practically no more climbs for the rest of the trip. Bask in your hard fought effort to get to the top of Glen Pass and enjoy, because stunning views like this are only available to those who can make it, and honey if this Below Sea Level swamp monster with a 30 lb pack can climb to nearly 12,000 ft, so can you. No matter what, just keep pressing on.

Reflection Lake Junction offers a totally different serotonin boost. Campers fishing, running water, birds chirping, and the sunset giving the mountains and the water a golden highlight make this night so rewarding. As your last night camping, reflect on all that you hiked to get to this peaceful evening by the water. There are campsites that are right along the water so be diligent in your search for a site that offers you the most bang for your camper’s buck.

Day 4: Junction Meadow to Trailhead, 11 mi

Day four offers some good sights, but we flew through those eleven miles, finishing around 1:00 PM. The last part of the decline is a long series of switchbacks, and you can find comfort in knowing that your incline was a lot friendlier than what the oncoming backpackers are experiencing.

Relish in your success of about 45 miles trekked by foot. There’s not a greater feeling then reaching your car and taking off your pack.

A few thoughts:

If you’re second-guessing your ability to hike this trek, my advise to you is to try everything at least once. Your feet will hurt and your pack will feel heavier each time you pick it up, however this trip is unlike many others. There are so many opportunities to catch a glimpse of the sheer majesty of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range with a pace that best fits your style, PLUS, managing far less crowds than other California National Parks.